Research into the well established field of conservation and preservation on Chinese embroidery

Hunan embroidery is a representative of traditional craftsmanship. Manually extracting and sorting out the cultural genes of Hunan embroidery takes a lot of manpower and time, it need to adopt advanced technological ways for subsequent inheritance and development.

Today I have read two papers on the preservation and conversation of Hunan embroidery in the context of digitisation and Artificial intelligence. AI has already been used to preserve and utilise the unique stitches of Hunan embroidery, such as the excavation of historical and cultural genes, the research and establishment of a data base of Hunan embroidery stitches, the intelligent recognition of original Hunan embroidery paintings and stitch modelling, intelligent plate-making software and intelligent equipment technolog Synergy.

Pengmao stitch filling effect and physical picture (source: Hunan Normal University Hunan Embroidery Innovation and Research Centre)

On the other hand, there is also the video animation of Hunan embroidery as a display through video editing, providing a feasible path for the preservation, inheritance and innovation of Hunan embroidery culture in the digital era.

Video process editing of Can stitch (source: Hu Jing)

To sum up, regarding the way I currently want to get about the heritage and conservation of Hunan embroidery has already been done, I can consider whether to do the same in other aspects of heritage and conservation, as this direction is huge and time and energy consuming, considering the resources I currently have in the end only 1 month or so I may not have time to do the innovation. But this is a direction I can continue to dig deeper into after I graduate.

# AC Knowledge # AC Enquiry

Bibliography

Hu, J. 2019. Research on the digital conservation of Hunan embroidery hand stitching，CNKI.

Yang, L.2021. Under the Vision of Artificial Intelligence A study on the inheritance of disheveled needle, a representative gene of Hunan embroidery culture. CNKI.

Secondary research on the traditional crafts movement in China

For research on the traditional arts and crafts movement in China, I consulted the largest literature site in China, Zhiwang. Through my research, I found that China has not produced an Arts & Crafts movement like the British one due to the political system. In addition, in the early 20th century, the British Arts & Crafts movement was introduced directly to China through the writings, translations and articles of a number of Chinese artists, designers and cultural and artistic scholars. The introduction of these literary, artistic and cultural etc works complemented the spread and influence of the British Arts & Crafts movement in China.

Modern Chinese art and design was less influenced by the Western Arts & Crafts movement, i.e. it did not give rise to this movement, the modern design movement or trend of thought that countries such as Europe, America and Japan were influenced by.

Li jun Zheng

So can a similar movement be generated now in China? One could argue that this movement would have to be politically led, because in China only a government-led movement could really be generated on a large scale. The reasons why it is difficult to spread among the people are, firstly, limited funds, secondly, government control, thirdly, the lack of resources, etc.

# AC Knowledge

Bibliography

lu, Zq., 2014. The influence of the contemporary western arts and crafts movement the revibal of Chinese contemporary crafts. Contemporary handicraft,(01),24-31.

Zheng, Lj., 2012. Transmission and Impact of¨The Arts and Crafts Movement¨
in China in Early 20‘h Century. CSSCI, 128(5), pp.195-196.

Slef reflection of David’s tutorial

David gave the following advice.

  • The subject of my research question, we （How can we….). He argued that the process so far did not strong related with the subject, and it seemed like I was doing it all by myself and didn’t see where we were.
  • The current question does not match my current process，it need evolve.
  • The priority of my research question needs to be considered, whether embroidery or technology takes precedence.
  • The new methodology for my research question seems to be technology only, not reflected in other methods.
  • He currently see a combination of technology and embroidery in my project, but at this stage I need a specific purpose to be added to it, such as education, toys etc.
  • I need to clarify my own position in the project, what role I am to play as a pioneer, intervener, embroiderer, etc.

Based on David’s advice about my research questions, I thought I’d wait until I’d done all the interventions in UNIT 3 before I sublimated it. Under this, I’ll try as many different types of interventions as possible.

My next step will be to add a specific purpose to my current project, I will try to see if I can incorporate an educational purpose on an embroidering. As well as whether this can be achieved by making interactive embroidered toys, toys where it has to be clear why it has to be embroidered, and if it is not embroidered, whether it can work or if it can achieve the same purpose.

# AC Knowledge # AC Enquiry # AC Communication # AC Process

Self-reflective of Zuleika’s feedback

Ctitiques from Zuleika

Suggestion:

  • Conduct a larger intervention with the Chinese tranditional embroiderers
  • Do more secondary research on the tradtional crafts movement in China
  • Refining research question in unit 3 and conducting more intervention with stakeholder groups
  • Further research into the very well established field of conservation and preservation

What can I do for these traditional Chinese embroiderers? I need to do more in-depth research for this issue, such as asking people who in the embroidery industry, to avoid falling into the trap of a saviour mentality.

DO more secondary research on the Chinese traditional craft movement. As well as investigating some secondary research on the preservation of traditional embroidery.

These studies will provide me with a deeper and broader understanding of the industry and may also provide sufficient background for my next interventions.

# AC Process # AC Knowledge # AC Enquiry

Online interview with Hand&Lock

Hand & Lock are London’s premier embroidery house providing embellishment services to the Royal Family, top European design houses, the Royal Armed Forces, Savile Row and members of the public.

Thanks to Jessica, Production Director of hand&lock, she thinks an education exchange would be really interesting， for accepting this invitation to talk about：

  • How the Chinese traditional stitches are introduced into their workshops?
  • Comments and feedback on the “ melding experiment”
Jessica on the left，and a person in charge of a embroidery school on the right

This dialogue identified the following：

  • Because of the language barrier for Chinese embroidery teachers, instructional videos of traditional Chinese stitches in both English and Chinese versions may be required.
  • The melding experiments were interesting, but it was important to get the interactors to understand the technique or to inspire them to learn about embroidery or to learn about the culture of embroidery.

In response to the feedback from this exchange, I will be collecting and collating teaching videos in both English and Chinese versions of traditional Chinese embroidery and will be working with the Hunan Embroidery Institute in Changsha. Because it would be beneficial for more people who want to learn Chinese embroidery to learn it, and they can become an independent learner, regardless of borders or languages!

Regarding the meldingexperiment, I will try to see if I can meld these instructional videos into existing works, interactive works of technology + education + embroidery culture.

# AC Communication # AC Process # AC Enquiry # AC Knowledge

Evaluation of interventions

This blog is trying to transform new information I received into knowledge

I have to ask myself, what has been learned from my intervention and my reflections on it? What went wrong? How I corrected that or maybe I didn’t correct it? I need to find ways to ensure that my evaluation is both objective and purposeful.

Ways of data collecting

  • Qualitative Observation (collect information by observing the target group to learn more about the project)
  • Video Recordings (focused on groups intercating with “melding experiment”
  • Photos of suggestions filled in by stakeholders on sticky notes
  • Final Interview (Through asking stakeholders questions and writing on paper about their experience of the interaction and suggestions）
Qualitaive observation

By qualitative observing my stakeholders, I find out which interactions are enjoyable and which are annoying – a permanent feedback process.

Observations may help explain behaviors as well as social context and meanings because the evaluator sees what is actually happening.

Ericsson et al, 1993

The 22 stakeholders who participated in this offline intervention were observed and collected reactions and feedback. Through my observations, the faces of each of the 22 participants expressed surprise at the intervention, and each of them enjoyed the interaction, which means that the direction of the intervention through the combination of embroidery materials and interaction is exciting and confirms that the direction is feasible.

In addition, I received a lot of encouragement and likes by posting my intervention video online on Reddit in the embroidery community and on Tik Tok, where the intervention video has 632 likes.

However, I observed that when they touched the crocodile clips to try to interact with the computer, they would impatiently try multiple touches if they were not sensitive,which indicated that I need to explore conductive materials in the embroidery itself, such as conductive thread, or other more sensitive conductive materials for the audience to interact friendly with.

At the same time, since the poster that attracted stakeholders to this intervention was “free hand-made embroidery”, when stakeholders were attracted to it, they would come up to me and ask what it was about, and then I would give them embroidery bookmarks first and then invite them to my intervention. This process suggests that my stakeholders may be suspicious or doubtful towards the statement and I need oral explaine this, so next time I should indicate on the poster ” Experience Tech+Embroidery, Get Free Embroidery”, which will make my stakeholders more clear of their participation.

Interview

Through a short interview with each stakeholder who experienced the intervention offline，and the following questions were asked

  • Do you prefer the embroidered bookmark on the left, or the interactive embroidery on the right? （Closed, fixed-response question (Structured)）
  • What would you suggest for this interactive embroidery? （Standardized, open-ended question）

Reargarding the first question, 22 stakeholders who participated in the offline intervention said that interactive embroidery was more to their liking than normal embroidery bookmarker, and suggesting that the way of embroidery craft + technology is the future.

Regarding the second open-ended answer, because of the issue of crocodile clip sensitivity, some were suggesting a more user-friendly experience. Then some were suggesting that it could be animated accordingly to the embroidery and then influenced by the interaction. Others suggested that the overall appearance of the interaction could be improved and made more aesthetically pleasing. These suggestions I need to accpet and try to overcome so that before the next intervention to make an iterative piece.

# AC Knowledge # AC Enquiry # AC Process

Bibliography

Atsdr.cdc.gov. 2022. Chapter 7: Evaluation Methods | Principles of Community Engagement | ATSDR. [online] Available at: <https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/communityengagement/pce_program_methods.html> [Accessed 25 August 2022].

McNiff, J. 2002. Action research for professional development; Concise
advice for new action researchers; 3rd Edition. Jean McNiff.

Delve. 2022. What is Qualitative Program Evaluation? — Delve. [online] Available at: <https://delvetool.com/blog/programevaluation> [Accessed 25 August 2022].

Intervention in Camden Lock Market and Brick Lane Market

Introduction

The intervention “melding embroidery” took place on August 18 and August 21 at Camden Lock Market and Brick Lane Market respectively. To attract stakeholders to participate in the intervention, I prepared 12 embroidered bookmarks to give away. The two interventions each lasted two hours and the total number of stakeholders was 12. By asking as well as handwritten feedback on sticky notes.

Intervention in Cameden Lock Market
A Londoner of Turkish origin is participating in the “melding embroidery”

The total number of participants at Camden lock maket was 7, with 4 local stakeholders from the UK, 2 from South America and 1 from Europe. When I asked them whether they thought the embroidered bookmark or the “melding experiment” was better, they all said the latter was better, but I will be looking for their suggestions on user experience and how the project can be improved.

Colleceting Feedback in Cameden Lock Market
Advice from this Londoner of Turkish origin

This stakeholder stated that when he touched the crocodile clips, sometimes the feedback was not quick , which made the experience less friendly for him, and he suggested that I could use other materials or other way to make the experience better . When I asked this feedback to other stakeholders, some of them agreed, so this is a breakthrough and an area for improvement.

At the same time, several stakeholders in South America and Europe said that the appearence of this “melding experiment” could be made more elegant and beautiful.

Intervention in Brick Lane Market
Local grandpa and lady from London are giving feedback

When I asked the grandfather ，an embroidered bookmark or the “melding expeiment” he experienced, which one is better . he said that the embroidered bookmark was the past and the latter was the future. At the same time, his advice was “the future is made important” because of the age of the stakeholder, and I appreciate his encouragement!

A CSM’s BA architecture graduate from the UK is giving feedback

The alumna said she was surprised by this interactive experience, while the advice she gave was that it could with graphics.

Conclusion

This intervention enriched the diversity of the data sources I collected in terms of race, age, and occupation, while most of the suggestions they gave were mutually agreeable, so I will take some time to anaylze the feedback collected for the evaluation.

# AC Realisation # AC Process # AC Communication

Feedback from RR’s Tutorial and self-reflection

Feedback

One of the questions I asked Richard today is that I’m at a point where I’m struggling how to move to the next step in the iteration, which is going head to the evaluation step, as I’m confused which of the stakeholder suggestions I’ve received whether are useful.

When I talked to Richard about the feedback I received until in Chinatown and online social platform, I was not satisfied with it because I wanted to get feedback from more ethnically diverse people. He thought that was one of the reasons why I was in a struggling situation, and he suggested that I need to do a bit more testing with that version of the project with different kinds of people and different places before I have enough feedback to make another iteration worthwile as I’ve really only got one or two bits of sustantially back.

Self-reflction

When I researched the three places where Richard suggested I can go for the intervention including Camden Lock, Brick lane and Shepherd Bush Market. I found that these places are indeed famous in London and are focused on crafts, music and international cuisine, which means that people in these places are more likely to spend time in the area rather than in a rush like in Chinatown. I reliazed that when I consider making an intervention next in terms of location, I should consider the type of area, such as which places people pass by in a hurry and which places people are willing to stay and enjoy that area. And include whether the area’s main purpose is about crafts, because that’s fits my embroidery project, and the feedback I get from interventionn can be more efficient, targeted, and diverse，and I’m planning to do my intervention in these three places this week.

# AC Knowledge # AC Enquiry # AC Process # AC Communication

Intervention#2

Type of Intervention

The intervention of this project is an artifact-based intervention that receive the reactions and respones of stakeholders through works that combine Chinese embroidery and technology.

Feedback and adjustments from the August 8 tutorial

After a Tutoria with Richard on August 8, he suggested that I should try to contact Embroidery Magazines as well as Craft Council, I have sent them an email and am waiting for their response. on the other hand, I have to narrow down my stakeholders from people who don’t know about Chinese embroidery specifically to people who are interested in Chinese embroidery or even embroidery, or even people who are willing to buy embroidery, which was really helpful and made it easier and faster when I did the intervention.

I will split into online and offline intervention. The online intervention is by sending short videos，posts to social platforms. Offline interventions involve stakeholders personally participating in my interactive work and getting feedback through both forms.

Online intervention

For this online intervention, I posted videos of my work to TIKTOK (with the embroidery hashtag attached), and to REDDIT’s digital embroidery community.

Feedback from TIKTOK

The work has received a total of 652 likes and 17 comments on tiktok.Basically most of the feedback was that it was great and ask me that how I did it. It was hard for me to get progress on this intervention on tiktok because it was all met with good feedback.

Posting in the Digitized Embroidery Community
Feedback from the digitized embroidery community

This feedback was really helpful, as this poster shared the FBk design and his thoughts on electroluminescent wire and sound interaction! I’ll go ahead and research what FBk design is and his ideas.

Offonline intervention

I chose the location of this offline intervention in China Town because I thought there were lots of people and interested in Chinese culture.

I created a “Free Chinese Embroidery” poster to try to attract the attention of my stakeholders, who would not be attracted if they were not my stakeholders, and then planned to invite them to do my intervention when I attracted them.

A Singaporean who said he agreed to be video-recorded

Luckily, the Singaporean, who is an engineer, said there was nothing special about this work for him, as well as he suggested whether I could replace the crocodile clips with needles, a conductive metal material, and then trigger different sounds or change the color of the thread through the audience’s own actions of threading the needle. It was a bit of a hit, but it was a source of progress. I will look into the implementability of this idea!

It is worth mentioning that the offline intervention was held from 10.30 am to 12 am on 13th August，a total of 10 stakeholders were attracted from this intervention, 9 of whom were come form China, Singapore, Taiwan and the remaining one was Pakistani.

# Realisation # AC Process